It performs a similar conditioning function to BTMS-50 and cetrimonium bromide but is not nearly as lubricating so it ideally should not be used on its own especially for dry hair types. You need to add either a humectant or a fatty alcohol to make it more conditioning.
- Fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol
- Humectants: glycerine or propylene glycol
That said, its detangling capabilities are superior to both BTMS and cetrimonium bromide. Importantly, it can be added to surfactant formulations because it is water-soluble where as BTMS-50 and cetab cannot.
Cetac is a different compound to cetrimonium chloride. It is composed of:
- 29-30% cetrimonium chloride
If you have very fine, tangle-prone hair try formulating a conditioner with cetrimonium chloride on its own to see how it perform otherwise combine it with other ingredients to create a more complete conditioner, e.g. add cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol or glycerin.
Usage rate: 0.5% to 5% in rinse-off products; 2% can be optimal to get the detangling benefit. 2% will get rid of any silicone build-up in your hair. Check the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). Usage rate in leave-on products can be as little as 0.25%,
You can add cetrimonium chloride to any phase: heated oil phase, heated water phase or the cool-down phase. You may find your conditioner is less watery if you add it during the cool down phase.
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