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What is hygral fatigue in natural hair?

11/4/2013

 
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When hair is wet, it absorbs water and swells. As it dries it releases water and shrivels. This shrinking and swelling can lead to hair damage called hygral fatigue. 

How can you prevent hygral fatigue?
Before you shampoo your hair plasticize it by 
1. Applying a detangling conditioner or 
2. Applying a polar oil (e.g. coconut oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil) or 
3. Applying a bit of your regular conditioner with a spritz of water.

Whichever pre-shampoo treatment you use will penetrate your hair fibre so that when your hair is wet it does not swell as much. 

Note that not every hair oil will work as a pre-shampoo treatment. Oils that are high in polyunsaturated fatty acids (e.g. castor oil) cannot penetrate the hair fibre; such oils are better for sealing in hair moisture.

You might also like:
What Are Polar Oils? How Do They Protect Natural Hair from Hygral Fatigue?

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How to test your natural hair's porosity 

10/4/2013

 
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Porosity of hair refers to how large or small the "pores" on hair are. Porous hair loses its moisture content much more easily than hair that is not porous. Damaged hair is always more porous than healthy hair.

Porous hair is more prone to breakage, split ends and other kinds of damage.

Hair that dries quickly tends to be more porous than hair that takes a long time to dry. However, the rate at which hair dries is obviously influenced by external factors, for instance, if it's a hot, sunny day or if your central heating system is set high then your hair will tend to dry faster than if it's cold or if your homes's heating is set low.

To test your hair porosity more specifically do the following:

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The Hair Porosity Test

  1. Get a glass tumbler.
  2. Fill it with tap water 
  3. Let the water sit undisturbed for c.30 minutes so that it gets to room temperature.
  4. Pluck a hair from your head and place it on top of the water in the tumbler.
  5. Watch the hair to see how it sinks.

Porous hair will start to sink right away; the more porous, the faster the hair sinks. Hair that is not porous will float for a long while before it starts to sink.

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What Is Cholestrol Conditioner? Is It Necessary for Natural Hair Regimens?

9/4/2013

 
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Cholesterol is designed to repair and rehydrate dry and damaged hair.

Cholesterol treatments are rich in lipids (fats). Hair is 97% protein, however, lipids are also a vital constituent of a hair fibre - they give hair its lustrous, shiny, healthy look.

What causes damage to the lipids in hair?
  • Heat damage (from harsh sun exposure or appliances such as straighteners)
  • Color treatments
  • Over-processing

When might you want to use cholesterol?
If you feel that your hair is unusually dry or brittle it could revive your strands.

Is a cholesterol conditioner a protein conditioner?
No. Although they contain some protein, it's too little for it to be categorised as a protein conditioner. Cholesterol treatments are moisturising conditioners.

How does cholesterol work?
The lipids in cholesterol conditioner bind to the hair shaft and transfer lipids and a small amount of protein into the hair fibre.

How should you use a cholesterol conditioner?
Use heat to increase absorption. For the best results, apply the conditioner liberally, then put a shower cap over your head, blow dry over the surface of the cap and lock that heat in with a towel or thick hat. Leave for 10-15 minutes before washing out.

Is a cholesterol conditioner a necessary part of a natural hair regimen?
No. It's only important if your hair is damaged.

Can you use it weekly?
Yes but you would still need to deep condition because cholesterol conditioner don't carry all the benefits if a proper deep conditioner.

You might also like: 5 types of conditioner for natural hair and a frizz-free tip!

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References:
About Cholesterol Hair Conditioner

Natural hair revival for black women (a BBC report)

6/4/2013

 
It turns out that South Africa's president, Jacob Zuma, is a natural hair supporter and has "urged" African women to embrace natural hairstyles and avoid straightening their hair using chemical relaxers.

It is true that relaxing hair is still crazy-popular in Africa but natural hair is making a comeback there as it is in the US and in Britain. The more people African girls see with natural hair, the more they will come to embrace it as a normal and manageable thing to do. Let's keep blogging and vlogging!

Watch this report on BBC by Lebo Diseko:
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What Is The Difference Between An Essential Oil and A Carrier Oil

5/4/2013

 
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When we talk of oils we are almost always talking about carrier or base oils. This is the difference between carrier/base oils and essential oils.

Source

Carrier oils are normally vegetable oils derived from the fatty parts of a plant, such as the seed, kernels or nuts; essential oils usually come from non-fatty areas such as bark, roots, stems, leaves and the aromatic portions of the plant

Potency

Carrier oils are not very potent or concentrated, this is to say they will not normally burn or irritate your skin if applied directly. Essential oils, on the other hand, are very potent and should never be applied to skin directly as they can burn right through it or cause very severe skin irritation! They have to be diluted in a carrier oil. 

Lavender is one of the milder essential oils for skin but even then, direct application is NOT recommended.

Quantity needed

Carrier oils are used for a wide variety of functions for skin and hair so even for regular usage a large volume is needed. As essential oils are highly potent you only ever need a few drops at a time. This is why they are sold in such minute volumes.

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Packaging

Carrier oils for consumer use are normally sold in clear, plastic bottles of 60 ml (2 0z ) at a minimum and frequently much larger volumes. Essential oils for consumer use are normally sold in 10 ml (0.35 oz) dark glass bottles.

Properties

Carrier oils don't easily degrade and evaporate. Essential oils degrade and evaporate rapidly when exposed to light; they also eat into plastic - this is why they are sold in glass bottles. That said, all oils should be kept in a cool dark place to make them last longer.

Essential oils are thin oils with strong aromas whilst carrier oils are thicker (more oily) and have a   much milder aroma when they have one at all.

Top Carrier Oils For Hair vs. Top Essential Oils for Hair

Carrier Oils
Argan oil
Avocado oil
Castor oil
Coconut oil
Jojoba oil
Sweet almond oil
Essential Oils
Cedarwood
Lavender
Thyme
Rosemary
Peppermint
Ylang ylang
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The top 4 essential oils oils are found in Neno Natural's Hair Growth Stimulator.

Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair.


Ref:
Carriel Oils (Wikipedia)
What Are Carrier Oils (Aromaweb)
Essential Oils (Wikipedia)

A Quick Remedy To Stop Your Scalp From Itching

4/4/2013

 
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My scalp has ALWAYS been sensitive but it hasn't always been so darn itchy! In fact, if I think about when I started having an itchy scalp it would likely fall within the last 18 months or so. Whenever I plait my hair it seems to get more itchy in the first week following the plaits.

This week, I've been thinking that I actually "make" my scalp more itchy by a) thinking about it and b) scratching. Whenever I scratch it seems to itch more! That has led to my decision that whenever my scalp itches I will try not to scratch. Lo-and-behold, the rate of itchiness has fallen by about 75%!

That said, there are times when my scalp is genuinely itchy and this remedy works a charm:
 
1. Add 8 to 16 drops of peppermint essential oil to 0.5 ounces of a good oil, e.g. jojoba, argan oil, avocado oil, or fractionated (liquid) coconut oil.

Note that the higher the quality of the peppermint essential oil the fewer the drops you'll need to get the same impact. It's very hard to tell the quality of an essential oil from the bottle but if 8 drops in 0.5 ounces of oil don't give you a tingly feeling, it's probably a low grade oil! Next time spend a little more for a higher quality of essential oil.

2. Apply the oil mix to your scalp.

3. Wear a shower cap.

4. Blow dry the surface of the cap for 3 to 5 minutes then pop a beanie hat on for a further 15 to 30 minutes.

You should be itch free for the rest of the day. I find that without the heat this remedy does not work for me. The heat is an essential part of the solution.

For a longer lasting solution see Neno Natural’s foolproof anti-itch hair wash.

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What Is The Difference Between Sweet Almond Oil and Bitter Almond Oil?

3/4/2013

 
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There are two types of almond oil: sweet almond and bitter almond.

Function
Sweet almond oil is a base or carrier oil
Bitter almond oil is an essential oil

Origins
Sweet almond oil comes from the sweet almond tree, prunus dulcis, var. amygdalus, this is the tree that produces the commercial variety of almonds that we eat. Its flowers are usually white.

Bitter almond comes from the almond tree, prunus dulcis, var. amara. Its flowers are normally pink.

Shape
Bitter almonds are slightly broader and shorter than sweet almonds, and they contain only about 50% of the carrier/fixed oil that is found in sweet almonds.

Usage
Sweet almond oil is one of the top oils for hair (and skin); it is rich in protein, vitamins and mineral oils and therefore is considered nourishing and revitalising. 

Unlike the essential oils lavender, rosemary, thyme and cedarwood which are known to stimulate hair growth and are all found in Neno Natural's Hair Growth Stimulator, bitter almond does not have any aromatherapy benefits at all. It simply exists as a fragrance essential oil. 

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How to Tell if You Are Buying Sweet Almond Oil or Bitter Almond Oil?

If the bottle just says "Almond Oil" you can sometimes tell which of the two it is using the following indicators:

As an indication only, carrier oils are not potent and are used for a wide variety of functions so they normally come in plastic, larger bottles of 60 ml (2 0z ) at the very smallest.

Essential oils are highly potent so you only ever need a few drops at a time. They degrade and evaporate rapidly when exposed to light plus they eat into plastic so they're normally sold in 10 ml (0.35 oz) dark glass bottles.

With the above said, however, I would not buy a bottle that just says "Almond oil" because it may suggest a poor quality producer who doesn't even know the difference between the two. 

For your hair you want "Sweet Almond Oil" so to avoid confusion don't bother buying a bottle that doesn't say "sweet" on it!

You might also like: 
  • 5 benefits of sweet almond oil on natural hair
  • What Is The Difference Between An Essential Oil and A Carrier Oil

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Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair.

Reference:
  • Sweet and Bitter Almonds (Wikipedia)
  • What is The Difference Between Sweet Almond & Bitter Almond (Susan Soaps)

United Kingdom (UK) Kinky and Curly Natural Hair Product and Beauty Boxes

2/4/2013

 
At the moment there only seems to be one natural hair product box in the UK, Rosebox.

As with all product box companies, you subscribe in order to receive a box filled with products for natural hair. 

Rosebox offer the option of a one-off box if you're not sure about subscribing and an on-going subscription which can be cancelled at any time.

Rosebox sent out their first box in December 2012. From what they have sent out so far I think they are worth the money if you're relatively new to being natural or if you haven't discovered your staple products.

I recently ordered my first one-off RoseBox and I have fully subsscribed to GlossyBox for makeup! 
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RoseBox STOPPED OPERATING.
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Glossy Box - £10 + £2.95 /month

This is a monthly makeup box. 

I am looking forward to it but I am a little nervous about receiving too many products designed for caucasian hair or skin. 

The March box contained a hairspray - that is obviously something I don't need.
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Birch Box - £10/month

Beauty and lifestyle products. Mostly makeup but I was surprised to see chocolate on the list - huh? This box is lacking in ethnic products, at a glimpse.
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You might also like:
Kinky and Curly Natural Hair Product Boxes in the United States (US)

Naturally Nadine's Pina Colada Shampoo Bar and Oil Review

1/4/2013

 
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The first thing that hit me when I opened my delivery from Naturally Nadine was the beautiful pineapple-esque smell. This is what I thought of the products:

Pina Colada Shampoo Bar

I had never used a shampoo bar before so I was a little anxious about using one for the first time. I have never liked soap on my body so I didn't know what I would think of it on my hair. 

I thought I would have to manhandle my hair to get a lather but quite the contrary, the Pina Colada Shampoo Bar lathers very fast with minimal rubbing. I slid the bar along the outside of my hair in the direction of the hair fibres all around the edges and that was enough to form a lather that penetrated the entire periphery of my head. I have very thick hair and the only area that hadn't foamed up was the very centre of my head so I simply repeated the process there.

My hair didn't feel stripped at all so I was happy. 

I asked my husband who has type 1 (very straight) hair to use it as well and he too was first astouded by how quickly and easily the Pina Colada Shampoo Bar foams up and then how great it smells. We both really like the shampoo bar.

Pina Colada Oil

The Pina Colada oils blend combines oils that are in Neno Natural's top 6 best oils. I love argan oil, coconut oil and avocado oil and they are all in there. I would, however, like to know what the fragrance is. None of the oils listed have that smell so I don't know if it's an essential oil or something else that is  responsible for the great fragrance.

All these products are available on the Naturally Nadine website.

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    I now blog about wealth creation - so if you have any money questions meet me there, you can do all sorts of cool things like leave me a voicemail.
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    By Heather Katsonga-Woodward

    I was a natural hair blogger and mixtress living between London & Chicago from 2012 to 2017. I always thought I was 4C but some say 4B; images below - you decide! Heather xx

    p.s. I now blog about wealth and personal finance on my personal website.

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