A short while ago I wrote about How To Make Homemade Aloe Vera Juice For Natural Hair. My recipe shows you how to extract the gel and then how to dilute it to make the juice version.

A few people asked how you can use the aloe vera gel or the juice on hair. Here are 5 ways that you can use aloe vera juice or gel. (If you want to know the benefits of aloe vera juice click the link to the blog at the bottom of this blog):

1. Pre-poo

Before you shampoo your hair apply aloe vera to your hair and scalp. This will help to condition and moisturize the hair as well as soothe an itchy scalp.

You can enhance the pre-poo formulation with essential oils. Let the pre-poo blend sit for 5-10 minutes before you rinse it out.

2. Shampoo

Add aloe vera juice to a store-bought shampoo to get it's moisturizing benefits or use it instead of water when you make a DIY shampoo recipe. This is especially useful if the shampoos that you can find in your local area dry your hair out.

Only add the aloe vera to the portion of shampoo you are about to use. Adding any extras to a whole hair product bottle can destabilize the lot!

3. Conditioner

You can use this to dilute a very thick conditioner instead of water. In so doing you will get the conditioning benefits of aloe vera juice too.

4. Scalp soother

If you have an itchy scalp or if your scalp is inflammed or sore for some reason apply aloe vera to the affected area and you should see a difference. Obviously if it is a serious issue you need to see a doctor.

5. Daily spritz base

Instead of spritzing with water use aloe vera.

Note that if you decided to use aloe vera juice with oils they won't blend but in the new year I will teach you how you can emulsify the two so that they do blend.

​If you are wondering what the benefits of aloe vera are, then you will like:

• What Is Aloe Vera And Why Is It Good For Natural Hair?

Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair.

My hair doesn't grow as fast or as well in the middle of the head and in the general crown area. I've always thought it's because I sleep on that part of the head a lot, however, that might not be the reason.

According to The Science of Black Hair by Audrey Davis Sivasothy it's common for people not to condition these areas of the head adequately because they are harder to reach.

The solution? The Comprehensive Conditioner Coverage Method.

Under the Comprehensive Conditioner Coverage Method conditioner is applied to hair a little like a relaxer would be:

• First, the hair is sectioned into 4 or 6 areas
• Then each section is saturated with conditioner from the root all the way to the tip

In this way hair is fully saturated with conditioner and you don't miss a spot.

I don't actually use this method for conditioner application but going forward I plan on consciously ensuring full coverage of conditioner especially in that region.

I think the CCC method is a little too mathematical for me but it does get the general point through, that is, when you apply conditioner make sure it's been applied everywhere.

As always, when you do your weekly deep condition cover your hair in a shower cap; blow dry over the surface for a couple of minutes for faster absorption. 15 to 30 minutes should be enough for your hair to soften.

Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair.

You might also like:

• The Best Way To Deep Condition Natural Black Hair
• What Is The Benefit Of Conditioner For Natural Hair?
• 5 Types Of Conditioner For Natural Hair And A Frizz-Free Tip!

Rhassoul or ghassoul is a natural mineral clay mined in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco. 

Rhassoul is rich in silicon, iron, magnesium, potassium, sodium and lithium.

If a hair recipe calls for rhassoul clay you can use bentonite clay as an alternative. You may find that your particular type of hair reacts better to one clay rather than the other.

Benefits of rhassoul

1. Rhassoul cleans hair gently even if it is already dry.
   
2. Rhassoul nourishes and conditions hair; it is richer in minerals and nutrients than bentonite clay.
3. As rhassoul can help to balance sebum production and to regenerate skin consider using the rhassoul clay hair mask to help treat scalp conditions such as dryness, itchiness, dandruff and even psoriasis.

Don’t store or mix rhassoul in a metal dish as its effectiveness may be reduced. Use glass or plastic. Importantly, note that clays can dry hair out so don’t use clays too frequently; once every four to six weeks should be enough to enjoy the benefits.

You might also like: How To Make A Rhassoul Or Bentonite Clay Mask For Natural Hair

Bentonite clay is an odorless, non-staining, impure clay that mostly consists of montmorillonite. It feels very fine and “velvety” to touch. Bentonite is formed from a reaction between volcanic ash and weather elements including water.

Bentonite can be found in several areas around the world but the greatest concentration of bentonite is found in the Great Plains area of North America.

The different types of bentonite are each named after the dominant element: sodium bentonite, calcium bentonite, potassium bentonite, aluminum bentonite and so on.

A high quality bentonite clay should be gray or cream. A white powder would suggest it’s been bleached or over-processed in some other way.

Bentonite is useful for 

1. Clarifying and cleansing hair because it binds to and attracts dirt and other impurities. 
2. Conditioning and moisturizing hair    
   
3. Calming skin/scalp conditions such as eczema 
4. Nourishing hair. Bentonite is not as rich in minerals and nutrients as rhassoul is but it does contain some and these would be imparted to hair.

Don’t store or mix bentonite in a metal dish as its effectiveness may be reduced. Use glass or plastic. Importantly, note that clays can dry hair out so don’t use clays too frequently; once every four to six weeks should be enough to enjoy the benefits.

You might also like: How To Make A Rhassoul Or Bentonite Clay Mask For Natural Hair

It may seem obvious but this is what you should be looking for in a good hair conditioner; it should:

• Restore moisture, i.e. soften your hair
  
• Make your hair easier to handle, style and manage
  
• Strengthen and nourish your hair
  
• Make detangling easier
  

If your hair conditioner isn't performing these functions well, keep looking or make your own using one of our homemade hair recipes!

Thin vs. thick hair

• If you have thick or course hair go for a thicker, creamy leave-in conditioner, e.g. Koko du Lait Leave-in.
  
• If your hair is thin or fine go for a lighter (spray) leave-in conditioner as it will not weigh-down your coils/curls, e.g. Giovanni Direct Leave-In Conditioner, Weightless Moisture.
  

Loose hair vs. plaits/braids/wigs

• If you're wearing braids, plaits or a sewn-in wig go for lighter spray-on conditioners because they are easier to wash out. You don't want too much product sitting between your plaits. 
• You can save money and space by diluting a thicker, creamier conditioner in an applicator bottle if that is what you already have.
  

Moisture vs. protein deficiency

• If your hair tends to be dry and lacking in moisture look for a moisturising leave-in conditioner. 
  
• If your hair is damaged and protein-deficient look for a leave-in conditioner that's rich in amino acids. For thick hair, I'd go for Lustrasilk Moisture Max Leave-in; for thin hair, I'd try Alterna Life Volumizing Leave-in.
  

I didn't realise there was so much to know about leave-in conditioners! Scroll down for quick links to the above-mentioned leave-in conditioners you might want to try!

Cholesterol is designed to repair and rehydrate dry and damaged hair.

Cholesterol treatments are rich in lipids (fats). Hair is 97% protein, however, lipids are also a vital constituent of a hair fibre - they give hair its lustrous, shiny, healthy look.

What causes damage to the lipids in hair?

• Heat damage (from harsh sun exposure or appliances such as straighteners)
  
• Color treatments
  
• Over-processing

When might you want to use cholesterol?
If you feel that your hair is unusually dry or brittle it could revive your strands.

Is a cholesterol conditioner a protein conditioner?
No. Although they contain some protein, it's too little for it to be categorised as a protein conditioner. Cholesterol treatments are moisturising conditioners.

How does cholesterol work?
The lipids in cholesterol conditioner bind to the hair shaft and transfer lipids and a small amount of protein into the hair fibre.

How should you use a cholesterol conditioner?
Use heat to increase absorption. For the best results, apply the conditioner liberally, then put a shower cap over your head, blow dry over the surface of the cap and lock that heat in with a towel or thick hat. Leave for 10-15 minutes before washing out.

Is a cholesterol conditioner a necessary part of a natural hair regimen?
No. It's only important if your hair is damaged.

Can you use it weekly?
Yes but you would still need to deep condition because cholesterol conditioner don't carry all the benefits if a proper deep conditioner.

You might also like: 5 types of conditioner for natural hair and a frizz-free tip!

Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair.

References:
About Cholesterol Hair Conditioner

To ensure you absorb all the good stuff from a deep conditioner many recommend that you apply heat over a shower cap or sit under a hooded dryer with hair covered in a plastic shower cap.

Why doesn't this cause heat damage? The reasons are simple:

1. Heat is not direct

The heat is not applied directly to the hair, it's over a shower cap so it is much less intense.

2. The conditioner creates a protective seal

At the time you apply heat, your hair is covered in the conditioner and that in itself acts as a strong heat protectant.

3. Water's "specific heat" temperature is very high

The specific heat is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of a given quantity of 'something' by one degree Celsius. A lot of energy is need to increase the temperate of water by one degree. Conditioner's key ingredient is water.

Water acts as a buffer between the heat and your hair and slows down the rate at which your hair fibres take in the heat.

It also follows that if your hair is very well moisturised, sealed (e.g. with coconut oil or an oil blend) and has been recently deep conditioned, styling tools that use heat are much less likely to cause heat damage.

Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair.

Ref: The Science of Black Hair, pages 171-2

First and foremost, note that not every conditioner is a deep conditioner. I wish I really understood this at the beginning of my natural journey. Read this to understand the variety of conditioners that are on the market.

A deep condition is need every 7/10 to days regardless of the state of your hair: whether you're rocking an afro, in braids or a weave your hair needs regular hydration and deep conditioning.

The objective of conditioning is to:

1. Reduce porosity - this helps you retain moisture better. This reduction in the porousness of hair occurs because conditioners have a lower pH than shampoo, i.e. they are more acidic.
   
2. Increase softness - this makes hair easier to manage 
   
3. Increase elasticity - this in turn reduces the likelihood that your hair will break as you handle it (combing, blow drying, braiding etc.)
   
4. Normalize the pH of hair following a shampoo
   

The deep conditioning process:

1. Detangle thoroughly
2. Wash your hair with water and then your shampoo if you use one
   
3. Apply the deep conditioner generously
   
4. Cover your head in a shower cap (I use two shower caps) then blow dry on top of the shower cap or sit under a hooded dryer for 5 minutes. The heat helps your hair to absorb all the good stuff from the product.
   
5. I then cover my hair in a hat or a thick scarf so the heat is trapped inside
   
6. When it's time to wash out the conditioner, I take the showercap off and let the hair cool down before rinsing the conditioner off first with warm water, then with very cool water to seal the cuticle layer of the hair.
   

If you intend to blow dry or flat iron your hair afterwards you can follow the deep conditioner with a moisturising condition. This will ensure the heat does not dry the hair out too much. 

A deep conditioner followed by a moisturising conditioner, say what? Yeah, according to The Science of Black Hair you can do that.

Trying to decide on an oil? Which oil you go for should depend on what you want to use it for!

For the scalp, e.g. if your scalp is dry

You need something that is light, so it doesn't clog up the pores and very rich in Vitamin E to nourish the scalp :

• Lightest oils: jojoba, coconut oil and argan oil. Jojoba has the added advantage of having a similar structure to sebum - the oil that the scalp naturally produces for itself;
  
• Most nutrient-rich oils: avocado and argan oil are very rich in vitamin E (they both have more vitamin E than olive oil.)
  

Pre-shampoo treatment

You need an oil whose fatty acids can penetrate the hair fibre. Why?

According to the Science of Black Hair, hair swells when it is wet and shrinks when it is dry. This constant swelling and shrinking is called hygral fatigue; overtime it weakens the hair fibre thereby making it more vulnerable to breakage. You can avoid hygral fatigue by applying an oil that is high in saturated fatty acids and/or monounsaturated fatty acids before the shampoo. These types of fatty acids can penetrate the hair shaft so that when you wash the hair, the hair fibre doesn't swell as much and is therefore less prone to weakening from hygral fatigue. 

The best oils (from the one with the highest content of saturated fats and/or monounsaturates):

• Jojoba oil (100%: 98% monounsaturates, 2% saturated)
  
• Coconut oil (97%: 6% monounsaturates, 91% saturated)
  
• Avocado oil (88%)
• Olive oil (86%)
• Sweet almond oil (71%)

Sealing in moisture

Polyunsaturated fatty acids are too large to penetrate hair's cuticle layer. Most of them bind to the outside of hair and stop moisture from escaping. Whilst the "pre-shampoo oils" mostly work by strengthening hair from the inside, oils high in polyunsaturated fatty acids operate from outside the cuticle layer of hair.

The best oils (from the one with the highest content of polyunsaturated fatty acids are):
Castor oil (89%)
Flaxseed oil (73%)
Grapeseed oil (70%)

Shelf-life

Note that most oils should keep well for a year plus except flaxseed oil whose shelf life is only 6 months! You can prolong the life of flaxseed oil by keeping it in the fridge. Some oils have an almost indefinite shelf life, e.g. castor oil and jojoba.

How about this whole acid/alkaline thing?

For the most part, oils are weakly acidic. However, even if the oil is weakly alkaline it doesn't mean it will cause you any harm. Try it and decide whether or not your hair agrees with it.

But ... oils make my hair dry!

If you think an oil is drying your hair out it could mean you're using it wrongly. Remember oils are NOT moisturisers. Oil and water repel each other so to get the benefit of an oil use a proper moisturiser first, e.g. leave-in conditioner and oil should follow after that.

You might also like:
The supersonic benefits of argan oil on natural black hair
6 fabulous benefits of avocado oil on natural hair
8 Benefits of Castor oil for natural hair & a warning!
6 top benefits of coconut oil - a MUST for every natural hair regimen!
8 great benefits of jojoba oil on natural hair
5 benefits of sweet almond oil on natural hair

Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair.


References:
Investigation of Penetration Abilities of Various Oils;
Acid/alkaline chart (Natural Health Center), LookChem; NaturallyThinking; Balance pH diet; GardenOfWisdom;