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Why Are Sulfates Bad for My Natural Hair?

5/10/2016

 
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Sulfates are a detergent or if you want to use the fancy term, they are a "surfactant". They are regularly used in the formulation of shampoo.

If you have very oily hair or if your hair has a massive amount of product build up, they are okay to use. Almost every shampoo that is commercially available, however, contains sulfate.

"Greasy" or oily hair is a common problem for white folk but black people tend to have the opposite problem, dry hair, so the omnipresence of sulfate containing shampoos can present a bit of a challenge!

Why are sulfates bad for natural black hair?
  • They dry the hair and scalp out. This is the chief reason they are not ideal. Dry hair is more brittle and prone to breakage; a dry scalp is more likely to get dandruff and is not in the best condition for the delivery of nutrients to the scalp.
  • They wash all the good oils out of hair
  • They increase frizziness; dry hair is more likely to get frizzy than well moisturised hair

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If you go for a sulfate-free shampoo you will be better able to retain moisture and this in itself will promote better growth of hair and better length retention.

That said, not all sulfate-free shampoos are made equal.

Some manufacturers combine so many surfactants into one shampoo making it more harsh than a sulfate-containing one - sigh.

​Read this for tips on how to shop for a shampoo. 

Carol's Daughter Black Vanilla Moisture & Shine Sulfate Free Shampoo For Dry Hair and Dull Hair, with Aloe and Rose, is designed to clean your hair without stripping it of all the amazing natural oils.

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Are Color Treatments Good or Bad for Natural Hair? The Pros and Cons of Using Hair Color

4/10/2016

 
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Color treatments can potentially damage natural hair but if you take precautions particularly by having your hair colored by a professional they do not have to be.

A hair dye works by either removing, replacing or covering up the color pigment naturally found in your hair. Permanent synthetic dyes are more likely to weaken and damage hair than natural dyes and temporary hair rinses.

Disadvantages of hair color
  1. It frequently dries hair out. And you know black hair tends to be dry enough all on its own!
  2. The stronger, more permanent dyes weaken hair - this is not ideal if you hair is already damaged.
  3. Dyes can cause allergic reactions or discolor your own skin.
  4. New growth looks different to the dyed hair and on some people this looks silly.
  5. You might not get the color you want!
Advantages of hair color
  1. It looks cool and different
  2. It can thicken each hair strand thus providing more body and volume to hair - this is great if you have thin hair and want to give the illusion of thickness
  3. It loosens the natural curl pattern of hair. This is an advantage if you have very coily hair and find looser curls easier to manage.

The healthier your natural hair is the more it will "accept" the hair color without damage. If your hair is fragile do not apply any color before speaking to a professional.

Don't forget to deep condition at least weekly when you color your hair. A deep condition will keep the health of your hair in tip-top shape.

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References:
Hair Coloring
The Science of Black Hair 

​You might also like: What types of dye are available to color natural hair?

6 Easy solutions for hair that's breaking or thinning around the edges!

3/10/2016

 
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Thinning and breaking hair edges
This is a VERY common problem, almost everyone including the super model Naomi Campbell has suffered from it but some have it a lot worse than others. Hair gets thinner or breaks around the edges for three main reasons:
  1. The affected areas aren't getting enough oxygen
  2. Hair is being pulled too tightly on a regular basis
  3. Hair around the edges (forefront, sides and nape) isn't being moisturised adequately

SOLUTIONS

1. Don't wear anything too tightly around your head.

Hair growth and health requires the delivery of nutrients and oxygen through the blood stream to the scalp. This delivery will not be obstructed if:
  • Scarves and hats are worn loosely especially head wraps/scarves that you tie around yourself; of course you don't want a head wrap falling off but you shouldn't overdo the tightness either. 
  • If you cycle or ride a motorbike (I know there are some black girls represented on the roads including myself, I cycle a lot) - don't tie your helmet too tightly. My helmet is tighter when I have an afro but when I have cornrows or twists it fits more easily.
  • Don't wear a satin night cap that is too tight. Personally, I wear my satin cap just beyond my hairline so it's not even touching my hair.
PictureOil edges & corn row lines to ease pressure from pulling.
2. Speak to your stylist if they're pulling too tight

  • No one wants to be a difficult client but if the edges hurt tell the stylist to plait more loosely; hold the edge/braid down to ease the pressure of pulling as each line or braid is put in
  • When you get home oil between the lines daily with a good quality, thin oil.

3. Don't tie your hair up too tightly


  • If you pull your hair up into a style or in corn rows or braids make sure the edges aren't pulled in too much because this will definitely lead to thinning or traction alopecia in the long run
  • Don't tie up hair that's very wet! Wet hair is quite elastic and as it dries it constricts, pulling the edges even tighter. This causes breakage around the sides and where the hear band is tied
  • Use a gel to help flatten hair without pulling it too tightly

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4. Give extra moisture to hair around the sides

Envirionmental factors, such as wind, dry hair around the outside  more than hair that is more centrally located. You need to compensate for this by giving peripheral hair more moisture, e.g. using a shea butter based cream or butter and locking that in with an oil.

5. Massage the edges regularly... 

...to stimulate the flow of oxygen and nutrients to the affected areas. A good oil, e.g. Neno Natural's Hair Growth Stimulator will make this massaging more effective. Put a shower cap over your head for 15 minutes to maximise absorption of the essential oils.

6. Take care with the face scrubs, face creams and foundations!

Finally, when you're having a bath/shower or putting on makeup protect the hair from those chemicals; don't rub the forefront more than is necessary with these cosmetics.

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Negativity & Natural Hair - It Comes From The Most Surprising Places

15/9/2016

7 Comments

 
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By Shaqwania

I visited a family member recently and I never thought I would have to stand my ground with this particular individual EVER in life. I never thought that I would be arguing about hair. 
​
She looked at me and told me that she didn't like my appearance. She told me that my hair was unacceptable and that black people no longer have to walk around looking like hooligans because there are so many different things out there for us to help us keep a more maintained look. 

I have semi freeform locks. My locks are low maintenance for the most part. I wash my hair and separate them to prevent the merging of my locks into bigger ones. My locks sit on a one to two inch afro. I chose this route once I began my lock journey because it just felt right.

Going through a lock process you will encounter what society views as an ugly stage. I beg to differ. I do not think there is an ugly stage. This ugly stage supposedly refers to the time your locks are doing whatever they want and are not in a neat and organized fashion so they could be poking out all over the place. It was not until I began my natural hair journey in 2012 that I understood the amount of damage that has been done to how we view our hair. 

I shared with my family member how I felt about their views and it deeply saddens me to know that there are people of our own ethnicity who feel like the hair that grows from our scalp is not the hair we should embrace. If there were never a relaxer created would we just hate our looks? Is this truly self love to not love every part of your being?

I went from loose natural hair to locks and many have supported my decision and others (like my family member) think I have gone crazy. They think I need to talk to someone. I find this hilarious, literally. I may go talk to someone but it will not be about my decision to lock, it will be about learning some ways to reprogram their thinking process. 

Being a natural hair video blogger, I have noticed division in the natural hair community. It is unfortunate but it is there: The division lies is all about hair textures. This has resulted in the labelling of hair as being either good hair or bad hair.

My hair is far from loose textured but many have come to me for help and without even realizing it they pretty much tell me my hair is bad in so many ways or they say that my hair looks good on me but the texture doesn't look good on everybody. This is merely the mindset (programming) that needs to be unlearned.

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I have two daughters whose hair care regimens I also share on my social media platforms.

My oldest daughter went through an episode at five years of age where a fungus began to grow on her scalp. I didn't want to relax her hair but she was on medications for weeks to try and kill this fungus and it was only spreading. It had a terrible odor and she was really embarrassed by it. I decided to apply a relaxer to kill it. The relaxer killed the fungus. Hmmm.....how about that!

Relaxers are not healthy but I couldn't sit back and watch my baby go through the fungus ordeal. I do not recommend anyone apply a relaxer to kill fungus as I am not a medical doctor. This does show how strong relaxer chemicals are. It was able to kill a fungus that she was being treated for for weeks with oral meds and medicated shampoos. She has since transitioned back to natural hair and only asks for blow outs as she understands the versatility of natural hair. 


My youngest daughter doesn't know anything about relaxers. She doesn't complain about her hair and it is just a part of her as it should be. This shows me that it is what is taught to us as to whether or not we just simply embrace what is ours. My daughter doesn't know about anything different so when she requests hair styles she requests natural styles that she picks out from the computer. She doesn't think her hair is bad or too kinky. It is her hair, PERIOD. 

As a mother my children are always watching. If I complain about my hair they will do the same. If I tell them their hair is bad out of impatience while styling their hair then they will believe it. If I embrace mine and encourage them to do the same they will embrace theirs and encourage others to do the same. 
​
What are we teaching those that we love about natural hair? Are we teaching them that it is ugly or bad hair or are we teaching them to love their God-given hair? 
  • Blog: naturalista4me2.wordpress.com
  • Twitter: @Naturalista4me
  • Instagram: @Naturalista4me2
  • YouTube: youtube.com/naturalista4me
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A little thing called hair - The divisive Nature of Black Hair

15/9/2016

13 Comments

 
By Peace Pressley, Gurlish Curls
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​Summer '16 has been so full of Black Girl Magic and Melanin! It has flooded timelines across all platforms. Yet, there is still one thing that can always cast a shadow over our achievements, and it’s this little thing called hair. For some reason, our gloriously coiled strands cause mass pandemonium in a number of situations. Here are a few examples of what I mean.
 
A couple weeks ago, I was askee to be the guest on a radio show where we discussed black hair.  The big issue was Ms. Gabby Douglas.
 
During the course of the Olympics, we watched Gabby Douglas, for the second time, get vilified over her edges. EDGES ya’ll! Because they were not ‘laid to the gods,’ she was dragged through the mud, by her own people.  She is an OLYMPIAN folks; and not once, but twice. And yet, it doesn't seem to matter.
 
Youtuber Karen Constant, better know as Glamfun decides that being natural just wasn't working for her, so she relaxed her hair. She was tired of the hassle of finding the right products, detangling, the salons, etc. She was ready for a break.  When she posted her video of her new ‘do’, her followers were not the most sympathetic to her very personal decision.  The comments rolling in were so bad, that she removed the video altogether.
 
Alicia Keys decided in March to stop wearing make up because she desired to feel free. Many Black women were not pleased. So when attending the VMA's with no make up AND a cute messy bun, they now thought her hair was just as ‘uncouth’ as her face.  It’s as if a bare face and curly hair is a crime now: when did it become a crime to be yourself?
 
With each of these situations, it seems impossible for black women to win. We are always between a rock and a hard place. Damned if you do, damned if you don’t. As we struggle to fit into a society that doesn't deem us worthy of protection and love, now we can’t fit in with each other. Where is it safe for black women to be free?
 
We don't need any Relaxed Renegades, Natural Nazis, and Weave Warriors coming for each other about their hair choices. Last I checked, we were all black women and we all had hair. We have enough people out to get us. We have to stick together. Remember ladies, a house divided against itself cannot stand.

Gurlish Curls
​
Blog: www.gurlishcurls.com
Fan Page: www.facebook.com/GurlishCurls
Youtube: Smoothecarmel
Twitter: @GurlishCurls
Instagram: GurlishCurls
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Here's how to apply.

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3 Combing Techniques That Break Natural Hair

6/9/2016

 
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I have a very good detangling and combing session once a week during my weekly wash.

A lot of my friends, even the natural-haired ones, find it very shocking that I don't comb my hair at all during the week I just finger comb. Combing and brushing has been such a "given" part of of our upbringing that removing it from our routine is almost akin to not brushing your teeth!

Anyway! These are the three things that I have learnt will break your hair when it comes to combing:
  1. Combing dry hair or very wet hair. Your hair should ideally just be damp when you're combing it.
  2. Quick, short bursts of combing. If you comb more slowly and more gently your naturally elastic hair will make way for the comb. However, if you comb too fast your hair will just snap under the force.
  3. "Bad combs" such as rattail combs with very thin/small gaps, or combs with rough edges or seams. The ideal comb is a wide-tooth comb like the one on the right. A wide-tooth comb is the gentlest type of comb for natural black hair. 
I tried to go completely comb free and realised that this was not for me either.
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You might also like:
  • Pros And Cons Of A Finger-Combing Only Natural Hair Regimen
  • Natural Hair Growth Tip 6 - Combing! When, How, How Much?

How Plasticizing Hair Makes Detangling Easier

30/8/2016

 
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Natural hair doesn't "like" being handled when it's dry or in fact even when it's very wet. Before detangling your hair you should "plasticize" to soften it and make detangling easier.

What is a plasticizer?

It's anything that softens hair and makes it easier to detangle and comb. 

What products can be used for plasticizing?

Water, leave-in-conditioner, a creamy moisturiser, oil and even a little rinse-out conditioner. Basically, anything that makes the hair more slippy.

My hair is quite thick and course so I find that thick, creamy moisturisers and leave-in conditioners work best for plasticizing my hair. I usually also follow with an oil to seal. For thin hair you might prefer to use just the oil or a very loose conditioner.

How much plasticizer should be added to hair?

If you're about to wash your hair, then you can add as much as you want. However, if you just want to detangle and style your hair for the day then use just a little bit. 

I probably use about a tablespoon's worth given my hair thickness. If your hair's thin you might prefer to use less product so that your hair isn't weighed down.

Any other tricks?

Why yes, when I am plasticizing my hair for styling rather than before my weekly wash I cover my hair in a shower cap whilst I shower and get ready as it helps my hair soften and makes it far easier to handle.
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You might also like: 
Dealing With Matted Natural Black Hair

7 Natural Solutions for Dandruff!

2/8/2016

 
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As a natural haired lovely it's likely that you don't want to reach for the next anti-dandruff shampoo to treat your dandruff because it probably contains sulfates and will dry out your hair.

Here are some solutions that you might not know about:

1. Drink more water

When the moisture content of the scalp falls below 10% dandruff may result. Dandruff is simple an increase in the rate at which the skin cells on the scalp divide. They are constantly dividing anyway but we only see this process when it becomes accelerated and is revealed through dandruff.

2. Crush a couple of aspirins and stir them into your shampoo

Make sure to put the aspirins into the portion of shampoo you plan on using just for that wash rather than to the whole bottle.

3. Wash your hair with baking soda rather than shampoo

Dilute the baking soda before application. 1 tablespoon for every litre of water should be enough. This can work quite well for type 1 and type 2 hair, however, type 3 and 4 hair types tend to find this quite abrasive. Asulfate-free shampoo may be the better option for we, the kinky haired.

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4. Add honey to your conditioner

Honey has antibacterial properties. It can also help to relieve any itching and flaking caused by dandruff. You can use the honey on its own but do know that excessive use of honey can lighten your hair's color.

5. Rinse your hair in lemony water

Squeeze the juice from half a lemon into 1 or 2 litres of water and run it through your hair after your wash and condition routine.

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6. Rinse your hair in apple cider vinegar (ACV)

This is an alternative to the lemon rinse. After your wash and condition routine, mix 100 ml of ACV with 1 litre of water and rinse your hair with the solution.

7. Add rosemary essential oil to all your hair products.

Rosemary essential oil is one of the ingredients in Neno Natural's Hair Growth Stimulator. It helps to treat dandruff because it has antibacterial properties. You can also add 10 to 12  drops of rosemary essential oil to 30 ml (1 oz) of your favourite oil and massage it into your scalp.

You might also like:
What Causes Dandruff? 

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Ref:
6 Homemade Dandruff Treatments
Natural Solutions for Dandruff

3 Vacation Proof Natural Hair Styles

26/7/2016

2 Comments

 
By Xotica Hair

​Your summer is filled with exciting vacation plans no doubt; plans which don’t include twisting your hair at night. Yes, you love your natural hair, but sometimes you need a vacation from the daily maintenance as well. So whether your plans include sightseeing in Europe with bae or island hopping with your girls, here are three vacation proof natural hair ideas! 

​Ghana Braids

Picture​Source: Instagram @thatdynamitechick
Incorrectly popularized as "boxer braids", Ghana braids or cornrows are having a moment in popular culture and it’s no great wonder to natural hair girls who have been rocking them for years.

These braids are super easy to install and will keep your hair in formation from the plane to the beach. You can experiment with colors and length for a fun vacation look with no day to day maintenance.

​Just wrap it up or sleep on a silk pillowcase and spend that extra hair prepping time soaking up some sun! 

Full Sew-In

PictureSource: Instagram @jacqueamadi
Another vacation proof hairstyle is a full sew-in weave. Even when all of your hair is covered in salt and sand, you can still maintain your signature natural look.

Using premium extensions, you will get perfect permanent curls without having to manipulate your own hair, and maintenance is super easy as well.

​Pineapple the hair at night and shake and go in the morning. You’ll look like a million bucks every day without spending a million hours perfecting your look! 

Box Braids

PictureSource: Instagram @bkmsang
These take some time to install but the outcome is just gorgeous.

Box braids are many naturals’ go to protective style - and for good reason! They look pretty and polished and can be pulled up or manipulated into different styles with ease.

You can take them for a dip in the pool and go to dinner without redoing your hair. And best of all, they last for months. Talk about vacation proof!
 
By Xotica Hair
www.xoticahair.com

2 Comments

Myths about Hair Care

13/6/2016

0 Comments

 
By Miranda Hicks  
​
Author Bio: Hi guys. My name is Miranda, and I am a professional hairstylist based in New York. I have been in the fashion industry for the past 10 years and have been graced to work with the some of the top ranking professionals in the field. For the latest information on hair products, styling tips and more, check out my top hair straightener (flatironpro.com) reviews.
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Hair care being a prominent part of a woman’s daily rituals provides an insight into the quality of her hair, and this is particularly important if you are following the myths that surround the hair care routine. It is a fact that various myths about hair care are implemented by women across the world to ensure having long and shiny tresses. But, there is a need to take a look at the rational viewpoint regarding hair care myths that need to be supported by logical reasoning to ensure that women follow only healthy hair practices. In this article, I will dispel some of the most common myths related to hair care so that all you beautiful ladies can practice a healthy hair care regimen.

Repeated Shampooing is key to Healthy Hair

A most common myth related to hair care is repititive shampooing. This myth is entirely false as repeatedly shampooing hair can deplete the moisture present in hair and leave it dry. So, don’t over-shampoo your hair if you want to maintain the natural shine and moisture of your hair as well as keep it healthy and strong.

Hair Growth is Directly Related to Regular Trimming Sessions

Another popular myth about hair care is that regular trimming sessions make your hair grow faster, but it doesn’t hold true regarding healthy hair growth. The fact is that every month hair grows about half an inch whether or not you go for the trimming sessions. It is true, however, that trimming makes your hair look presentable and well managed, but hardly helps the process of hair growth.

Wash Your Hair with Cold Water Only

You must have heard many times from people that you should wash your hair using cold water only to keep it nourished and healthy. In fact, the lukewarm water is more helpful for rinsing products out of your hair because cold water frequently doesn’t clean products from hair entirely. The use of cold water at the end of your wash process can, however, make hair look a bit shiny, so use cold water to rinseyour hair, since excessively hot water can robyour hair of all the essential moisture.

You Can Repair Split Ends

It is often seen that women resort to different hair practices to cure split ends. The fact is that split ends can’t be repaired even if you use the best shampoos and conditioners, as the only way to minimize the occurrence of split ends is to go for regular trimming sessions, but even then,existing split ends cannot be undone.

Comb Your Hair by Following a Set Pattern Only

Some suggest that you should brush your hair from top to bottom (roots to tips) following it’s natural growth pattern. However, the fact is that it’s better to comb curly hair from the tips first and gently work towards the roots to minimize breakage and hair loss. Make sure to brush your hair only when itismoist(not too dry and not too wet) as wet hair combing can lead to unnecessary breakage.

Conclusion
​

Popular myths about haircare have become an indispensable part of life as women tend to follow these misconceptions without questioning them. So, I have tried to bring up the most common myths and have debunked them to make sure that you wonderful gals follow only healthy hair practices. Be gentle with your tresses and don’t follow any hair care myths blindly to have luscious hair.

All views are those of Miranda Hicks.
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    By Heather Katsonga-Woodward

    I was a natural hair blogger and mixtress living between London & Chicago from 2012 to 2017. I always thought I was 4C but some say 4B; images below - you decide! Heather xx

    p.s. I now blog about wealth and personal finance on my personal website.

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