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"Tame Me" Whipped Butter For Frizzy Hair ~  The Recipe

28/2/2014

 
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The vegetable butters, oils and essential oils in the "Tame Me" whipped hair butter are designed to tame frizzy strands without weighing the strands down. Before application make sure you moisturize your hair first.
Butters (75%)
  • 50g shea butter (50%)
  • 25g avocado butter (25%)

Liquid Oils (17%)
  • 16g argan oil (16%)
  • 1g vitamin E oil (1%)

Essential oils (1%)
  • 0.5g ylang ylang (11 drops) (0.5%)
  • 0.3g rosemary / sandalwood (7 drops) (0.3%)
  • 0.2g lavender or rose (4 drops) (0.2%)

Wax (7%)
  • 7g jojoba wax (7%)
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Method
  1. Set up a bain marie (a.k.a. a double boiler).
  2. Place the hardest butter or wax into it.
  3. Whilst the hard butters and waxes are dissolving place the remaining ingredients (soft butters, oils and fragrance or essential oils) into a deep and narrow plastic container, this is the container you’ll use to blend the whole lot.
  4. When the ingredients in the bain marie are just soft, remove them from the heat, allow them to cool but not to harden then scoop them into the container containing the other ingredients.
  5. Using a hand-held blender blend the ingredients until you get the desired consistency.
  6. Scoop the finished product into any container (glass/plastic/aluminium). You can use a spoon or a cake-decorating piping tube.
Application
  1. Rub some butter between your palms to dissolve it.
  2. Apply to hair that has been just moisturized. You can also use this whipped butters as a body butter.

Storage: The shelf life of this butter is about 18 to 24 months.
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What Is Avocado Butter? What Are Its Benefits To Natural Hair?

27/2/2014

 
Avocado oil is an edible oil pressed from the fruit of avocadoes (persea americana). It's one of my favs.

Benefits of Avocado Butter to Hair:

All butters that can be used for hair have more or less the same benefits. They:
  • Nourish hair and the scalp with vitamins and minerals thereby helping to keep both healthier for longer. This nourishing feature makes oil great for treating dry, damaged and frizzy hair in hot oil treatments and for massaging the scalp. 
  • Have moisture sealing properties thereby keeping hair softer for longer. However, all liquid oils (except coconut oil (which is actually solid anyway) and jojoba (which is actually a wax and not an oil)) can seal hair better than butters because they have a higher proportion of polyunsaturated fats – the type that cannot penetrate the hair cuticle.
  • Penetrate the hair cuticle to fortify hair from the inside; they do this better than oils because they have a higher amount of saturated fats and monounsaturated fats.
  • Help to boost hair’s shine but not as well as liquid oils.
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Different butters perform each of these functions to a different degree. 

Avocado oil is normally liquid at room temperature. Avocado butter, the solid version, is created by a process called hydrogenation. In this process the polyunsaturated fats are exposed to hydrogen to convert them to saturated fat and make a solid product.

I wrote about avocado oil in "6 Fabulous Benefits Of Avocado Oil On Natural Hair" so I won't write too much about it here. I am just adding to the information that I already provided.
SATURATED c.14%
  • Palmitic (14%)
MONOUNSATURATED c.73%
  • Oleic (65%)
  • Other (8%)
POLYUNSATURATED c.13%
  • Linoleic (12%)
  • Linolenic (1%)
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Good Substitutes For Avocado Oil

Olive oil has a very similar fatty acid structure to avocado oil. They are both high in monounsaturated fats. They are also rich in vitamin E and antioxidants.

Avocado butter has a shelf life of one year and a melting point of about 37°C, i.e. body temperature.

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Ref: gardenofwisdom.com/butters, 
swiftcraftymonkey/avocado


"Adore Me" Whipped Butter For Thin Hair ~  The Recipe

26/2/2014

 
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The vegetable butters, oils and essential oils in the "Adore Me" whipped hair butter are designed to seal moisture in thin strands without weighing the strands down. Before application make sure you moisturize your hair first. If you have thin hair you don't need to use too much product; apply your hair butters sparingly.

Ingredients

Butters (75%)
  • 25g murumuru butter (25%)
  • 50g cupuacu or kukui butter (50%)

PictureCupuacu Butter
Liquid Oils (24%)
  • 23g fractionated coconut oil (23%) – if you don’t have this liquid version of coconut oil use argan oil or jojoba instead
  • 1g vitamin E oil (1%)

Essential oils (1%)
  • Fragrance 1% (22 drops); 
  • If you prefer an essential oil use bergamot or geranium 1% or orange just for the scent.

Wax (0%): None

Method
  1. Set up a bain marie (a.k.a. a double boiler).
  2. Place the hardest butter or wax into it.
  3. Whilst the hard butters and waxes are dissolving place the remaining ingredients (soft butters, oils and fragrance or essential oils) into a deep and narrow plastic container, this is the container you’ll use to blend the whole lot.
  4. When the ingredients in the bain marie are just soft, remove them from the heat, allow them to cool but not to harden then scoop them into the container containing the other ingredients.
  5. Using a hand-held blender blend the ingredients until you get the desired consistency.
  6. Scoop the finished product into any container (glass/plastic/aluminium). You can use a spoon or a cake-decorating piping tube.
Application
  1. Rub some butter between your palms to dissolve it.
  2. Apply to hair that has been just moisturized. You can also use this whipped butters as a body butter.

Storage: The shelf life of this butter is about 18 to 24 months.
Picture

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What Is Cupuacu Butter? What Are Its Benefits To Natural Hair?

25/2/2014

 
Like murumuru, cupuacu butter (theobroma grandiflorum) is native to the Amazon rainforest in Brazil. It is pressed from the seeds of the tree.

Benefits of Cupuacu Butter to Hair:

All butters that can be used for hair have more or less the same benefits. They:
  • Nourish hair and the scalp with vitamins and minerals thereby helping to keep both healthier for longer. This nourishing feature makes oil great for treating dry, damaged and frizzy hair in hot oil treatments and for massaging the scalp. 
  • Have moisture sealing properties thereby keeping hair softer for longer. However, all liquid oils (except coconut oil (which is actually solid anyway) and jojoba (which is actually a wax and not an oil)) can seal hair better than butters because they have a higher proportion of polyunsaturated fats – the type that cannot penetrate the hair cuticle.
  • Penetrate the hair cuticle to fortify hair from the inside; they do this better than oils because they have a higher amount of saturated fats and monounsaturated fats.
  • Help to boost hair’s shine but not as well as liquid oils.
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Different butters perform each of these functions to a different degree. 

Good Substitutes For Cupuacu Butter

Cupuacu butter is somewhat similar to cocoa butter but has less palmitic acid (a good moisture sealant). I don't think cocoa and cupuacu butter are perfect substitutes by any stretch of the imagination especially as they have very different consistencies to each other. I would say mango butter is a better substitute for cupuacu than cocoa. However, mango butter is less conditioning/softening and is drier than cupuacu.

As a very nutrient rich butter cupuacu is good for weak, brittle and damaged hair (e.g. in my "Love Me" DIY Hair Recipes). It's a especially good if you are spending a lot of time in the sun as some of it's constituents provide natural protection from UV-A and UV-B rays. Both hair and skin need that protection. 
SATURATED c.54%
  • Stearic acid (36%)
  • Palmitic (10%)
  • Other (c.8%)
MONOUNSATURATED c.44%
  • Oleic (43%)
  • Palmitoleic (0.4%)
  • Gadoleic (0.4%)
POLYUNSATURATED c.2%
  • Linoleic (2%)

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I plan on using it in some of my DIY Hair Recipes for dry hair ("Feed Me") because it is reputed to be a good softener; and in my hair retention DIY Hair recipes ("Grow Me") because it is so nutrient rich.

It has a melting point of 25 – 35°C and a shelf life of 2 years.

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Ref: 
gardenofwisdom/butters, fromnaturewithlove/cupuacu, 
lush/Cupuacu, amazonoil/cupuacu, skincare-amazonia/cupuacu, presentwoc/cupuacu 


What Is Murumuru Butter? What Are Its Benefits To Natural Hair?

24/2/2014

 
Murumuru butter is extracted from the seeds of the astrocaryum murumuru. It is native to the Amazon Rainforest in Brazil.

Benefits of Murumuru Butter to Hair:

All butters that can be used for hair have more or less the same benefits. They:
  • Nourish hair and the scalp with vitamins and minerals thereby helping to keep both healthier for longer. This nourishing feature makes oil great for treating dry, damaged and frizzy hair in hot oil treatments and for massaging the scalp. 
  • Have moisture sealing properties thereby keeping hair softer for longer. However, all liquid oils (except coconut oil (which is actually solid anyway) and jojoba (which is actually a wax and not an oil)) can seal hair better than butters because they have a higher proportion of polyunsaturated fats – the type that cannot penetrate the hair cuticle.
  • Penetrate the hair cuticle to fortify hair from the inside; they do this better than oils because they have a higher amount of saturated fats and monounsaturated fats.
  • Help to boost hair’s shine but not as well as liquid oils.
Picture
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Different butters perform each of these functions to a different degree. 

Good Substitutes For Murumuru Butter

In terms of the benefits, murumuru butter is very similar to coconut oil but apparently, structurally, it should provide better moisturizing & conditioning to hair than coconut oil. Apparently tucuma butter - one I haven't tried yet - also has similar properties to murmuru.

It has a high affinity for hair proteins and will definitely penetrate into your hair cuticle in the way coconut oil does. Being light in weight makes it a great ingredient for thin hair so I'll be using it in some of my "Adore Me" Hair Recipes. As a very conditioning oil it's also suitable for products designed for dry hair (see my "Feed Me" range of DIY Hair Recipes) and for weak, brittle or damaged hair (see my "Love Me" range of DIY Hair Recipes).
SATURATED c.85%
  • Caprylic acid (2%)
  • Capric (2%)
  • Lauric acid (46%) 
  • Myristic acid (26%) 
  • Palmitic acid (6%)
  • Stearic acid (3%)
MONOUNSATURATED c.12%
  • Oleic acid 12%
POLYUNSATURATED c.3%
  • Linoleic acid 3%

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As a reminder the composition of coconut oil is 91% saturated fats, 6% monounsaturated fats and 3% polyunsaturated - so, very similar to murumuru butter.

It has a melting point of 25˚C to 37˚C and a shelf life of 1 to 2 years.

Picture

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Ref:
  • wikipedia.org/Astrocaryum_murumuru
  • swiftcraftymonkey/few-other-butters
  • exoticbuttersandoils/murumuru butter
  • gardenofwisdom.com/butters

What Are The Differences Between Waxes And Oils / Butters? Are Waxes Okay To Use On Natural Hair?

22/2/2014

 
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Waxes are actually very similar to butters but the slight difference in their structure makes waxs extremely water-hating (hydrophobic). Many waxes occur naturally in the environment:

  • In plants, a thin layer of wax covers the stem and leaves to reduce water loss to the environment
  • In humans, ear wax protects the ear by stopping foreign objects from entering and damaging the ear canal.

Clearly then in a hair product wax can be used to seal hair better and prevent moisture loss to the environment. This is why I use a little wax in some of my DIY Hair Products especially hair butters.

Note that some waxes are synthetically made and others naturally occur in the environment. Natural waxes include beeswax, jojoba wax, hemp wax etc. 

Waxes are derived from:
  • Animals, e.g. beeswax, lanolin (from sheep)
  • Plants, e.g. jojoba wax, hemp wax, castor wax, rice bran wax
  • Petroleum, e.g. paraffin wax, petroleum jelly

I use jojoba wax and hemp wax in my DIY Hair Butters and not beeswax because I find beeswax a little hard to work with. The beeswax I have begins to solidify so quickly that you end up having a hair butter with tiny bits of solid beeswax here and there. Not good.

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  • Neno Natural's Free DIY Hair Recipes
  • Free Whipped Butter Recipes


Ref: infoplease.com (waxes), wikipedia (wax), swiftcraftmonkey (waxes)

"Soothe Me" Whipped Butter For Dry & Itchy Scalps ~  The Recipe

21/2/2014

 
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Gorgeous "Soothe Me" Whipped Butter
The vegetable butters, oils and essential oils in the "Soothe Me" whipped hair butter are designed to seal hair and also soothe / calm a dry and itchy scalp. Before application make sure you moisturize your hair first.

Ingredients
Picture
Butters (80%)
  • 60g kukui butter (65%)
  • 15g cocoa butter (15%)

Liquid Oils (19%)
  • 10g camellia oil (10%)
  • 8g blackcurrant seed oil or carrot tissue oil (8%)
  • 1g vitamin E oil (1%)

Essential oils (1%)
  • 0.5g peppermint (11 drops) (0.5%)
  • 0.2g lavender (4 drops) (0.2%)
  • 0.2g rosemary (4 drops) (0.2%)
  • 0.1g lemon or tea tree  (3 drops) (0.1%)

Wax (0%): None

Method
  1. Set up a bain marie (a.k.a. a double boiler).
  2. Place the hardest butter or wax into it.
  3. Whilst the hard butters and waxes are dissolving place the remaining ingredients (soft butters, oils and fragrance or essential oils) into a deep and narrow plastic container, this is the container you’ll use to blend the whole lot.
  4. When the ingredients in the bain marie are just soft, remove them from the heat, allow them to cool but not to harden then scoop them into the container containing the other ingredients.
  5. Using a hand-held blender blend the ingredients until you get the desired consistency.
  6. Scoop the finished product into any container (glass/plastic/aluminium). You can use a spoon or a cake-decorating piping tube.
Application
  1. Rub some butter between your palms to dissolve it.
  2. Apply to hair that has been just moisturized. You can also use this whipped butters as a body butter.

Storage: The shelf life of this butter is about 18 to 24 months.
Picture

​Get your FREE ebook on How To Grow Long, Healthy Natural Kinky or Curly Hair.


You might also like: 
  • Neno Natural's Free DIY Hair Recipes
  • Free Whipped Butter Recipes

Picture

What Are The Differences Between Oils And Butters?  Are They Both Good For Natural Hair?

20/2/2014

 
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There is only one real difference between oil and butters if you're thinking about their usage for hair: 
  • Butters are high in saturated fats and are therefore more able to penetrate the hair cuticle.
  • Most oils are very high in polyunsaturated fats and are therefore less penetrating but better at sealing in moisture.  

The solid state of butters and the liquid state of oils is also caused by them having different proportions of saturated vs. unsaturated fats. I get into a little more detail in Why Are Vegetable Butters Solid At Room Temperature & Oils Liquid?

Besides this there is no real difference as far as your hair (and skin) is concerned. If you want to learn about their impact on the body when you eat one vs. the other then this is not the right blog! lol

I use both oils and butters in my DIY Hair Recipes.

Are They Both Good For Natural Hair?

Yes. Whether you use one or othe other will depend on what you are trying to achieve. 
  • How Can Hair Butters Be Used On Natural Hair? Which Ones Should You Use?

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  • THE Best Oil For Natural Hair. A Mega Summary!




Are Hair Butters Good For Thin/Fine Hair? Light vs. Heavy Oils & Butters For Hair Care

19/2/2014

 
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If you have thin/fine hair strands you might want to opt for hair oils and butters that are lighters and don't weigh your strands down.

For thick and normal hair any oil or butter is fine. In my "Adore Me" DIY whipped hair butter for thin hair I use two exotic butters cupuacu/kukui and murumuru as they are both very light. However, those are not the only light oils on the market. 


Personally, I have very dry hair (& skin) so I am not a very big fan of the less greasy oils, I like some greasiness. 

I HATE the smell of Macadamia, the taste, pretty much anything and everything to do with Macadamia nuts - don't know why so you will never find me using it.

Light feeling oils and butters

  • Apricot kernel oil
  • Argan oil
  • Broccoli seed oil
  • Camellia oil (less greasy & very light albeit more expensive)
  • Carrot tissue oil
  • Coconut oil (very light)
  • Cupuacu butter
  • Grapeseed (less greasy)
  • Hazelnut (less greasy)
  • Jojoba
  • Kukui nut oil
  • Meadowfoam seed
  • Murumuru butter
  • Safflower oil
  • Sweet almond oil
  • Soy bean oil 
  • Sunflower oil
  • Sweet almond oil

Medium to heavy oils and butters

  • Hempseed oil (light to medium)
  • Rice bran oil (light to medium)
  • Sesame seed oil (light to medium, do not get the roasted kind!)

  • Macadamia nut oil (medium, less greasy)

  • Olive oil (medium to heavy)
  • Avocado oil (medium to heavy)

  • Castor oil (heavy)
  • Cocoa butter (heavy)
  • Kokum butter (heavy)
Note that grapeseed oil has a very short lifespan, it can be as little as 3 months! I learnt that the hard way, I bought a huge bottle and and didn't use it for a while then when I open it it just smelt "off". 

If you have shea butter just reduce its quantity in a whipped butter and add more oil to make a creamier blend which is better suited to fine strands. As for cocoa butter, it is much heavier and harder so if you have thin hair I wouldn't use more than 15% in a whipped butter and even less in other DIY products. 
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  • What Is The Basic Formula For A Whipped Hair Butter?


Ref: SwiftCraftMonkey (Grapeseed) (Oil Guide), EatByDate (How Long Does Oil Last), GardenOfWisdom (Shelf Life Of Oils)

What's The Difference Between A Hair Butter & A Hair Moisturizer? When Should You Use One And Not The Other?

18/2/2014

 
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A proper hair butter does not contain any water-based products. It is designed to seal hair after the hair has been moisturized. 

A moisturizer is a water-based product. A leave-in conditioner is just another name for a hair moisturizer. If you look under ingredients you will see "water" or "aqua" as the main ingredient. 

Water/aqua is an ingredient that you will not find  in a hair butter. If a product calls itself a hair butter and you see aqua or water, it plain and simply is not a hair butter.

Under both the LOC and LCO method used to moisturize black hair:
  • A hair butter is O (oil). Yes, even though it is solid it is O because a butter is just a solid oil.
  • A moisturizer or leave-in conditioner is C (cream).

I teach how to make whipped hair butters and moisturizer in my Hair Product Academy.

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  • Moisturising Natural Black Hair: LOC Method Vs. LCO Method

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    By Heather Katsonga-Woodward

    I was a natural hair blogger and mixtress living between London & Chicago from 2012 to 2017. I always thought I was 4C but some say 4B; images below - you decide! Heather xx

    p.s. I now blog about wealth and personal finance on my personal website.

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