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Water-soluble vs. Non-soluble Silicones Found in Hair Products

18/12/2013

 
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Nikki has super healthy hair. Click an Image for her regimen.
You know from my blog on The Advantages and Disadvantages of Silicones that silicones have some great benefits. However, some silicones do not wash off without shampoo so if you are on a co-wash regime you need to avoid them.

  • Water-soluble silicones are okay to use on a co-wash only regimen, avoid the rest.
  • Slightly soluble silicones don't actually dissolve but they mostly evaporate from hair with the rest washed out by shampoo so they won't build up as badly as non-soluble silicones on a co-wash regimen. If use a gentle sulfate-free shampoo you should be able to use both these and the water-soluble silicones. I would personally avoid these on a co-wash regimen to be on the safe side but if you want, try the product that contains slightly soluble silicones and if it's well for you continue using it.
  • Non-soluble silicones do not dissolve in water. Only use these if you use sulfate shampoos or the stronger sulfate-free shampoos. As a rule of thumb I would say that If your sulfate-free shampoo does not foam up it is too weak for non-soluble silicones.

Water-soluble (Will not buildup on hair; can be washed out with just water)
  1. Dimethicone copolyol
  2. Hydrolyzed wheat protein (hydroxypropyl polysiloxane)
  3. Lauryl methicone copolyol
  4. Silicones with PEG listed before it

Slightly soluble / evaporate from hair (May buildup in hair; can usually be co-washed out)
  1. Amodimethicone
  2. Behenoxy dimethicone
  3. Cyclohexasiloxane 
  4. Cyclomethicone
  5. Cyclotetrasiloxane
  6. Stearoxy dimethicone

Not water-soluble (Will buildup in hair and need a sulfate shampoo to be washed out)
  1. Cetearyl methicone
  2. Cetyl dimethicone
  3. Cyclopentasiloxane
  4. Dimethicone
  5. Dimethiconol
  6. Phenyl Trimethicone
  7. Stearyl dimethicone
  8. Trimethylsilylamodimethicone
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​You might also like:
  • What Are The Advantages And Disadvantages Of Silicones To Natural Hair?
  • Why Isn't Your Natural Hair Looking Shiny?


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Paula Edwards
18/3/2014 08:40:25 am

Hello I was reading your information about silicones and have looked up on my hair products ingredients list. I have found that some of my products have similar names to what is on your list. please could you tell me if: Stearyl Ahocohol the same as Stearyl Dimethicone?and Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol,Glycerin Dimethicone, the same as whats on your list. These ingredients are 3rd/ 4th down on the list. also what shampoo is best to use once a month to get these off my hair.I don't really co wash any more as I use 'Aunty Jackies moistuizrings shampoo which has got good ingredients in it.
Thank You

Heather Katsonga-Woodward
19/3/2014 07:11:05 am

Hi Paula,

They are all different ingredients indeed. As long as you wash your hair at least once every 7 to 10 days each one of those has a benefit to hair, e.g. helping to detangle hair (the silicones) and moisturizing hair (the glycerin).

Cetyl and cetearyl alcohol are fatty alcohols, they shouldn't dry your hair our - they are said to be good for dry hair - they also help to detangle hair and thicken products.

I make my own shampoos and conditioners and I use most of the above as raw materials.

Heather xx

Alice
31/5/2014 06:19:49 pm

This is such a helpful post, thanks so much!

G
3/8/2015 01:07:30 am

I co-wash with Pantene for Natural Hair and every two weeks I shampoo with Crème-of-Nature Argan Oil Shampoo which is sulfate-free. I use the Pantene for NH Deep Conditioner also. This regimen works for me and I have soft, curly hair.


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    By Heather Katsonga-Woodward

    I was a natural hair blogger and mixtress living between London & Chicago from 2012 to 2017. I always thought I was 4C but some say 4B; images below - you decide! Heather xx

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