How Do You Know Whether An Ingredient Should Be Added to the Heated Phase or Cool Down Phase Of Product Formulation

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This is one of the problems that I found when I first started making DIY Hair Recipes. I got a lot insight from the seasoned mixtress Swift Craft Monkey and The Naked Chemist.

Basically:

• If the ingredient is oil-based or solid and NOT heat-sensitive add it to one of the heated phase
  
• If the ingredient is heat-sensitive or is a water-based liquid add it to the cool down / water phase
  

Here is a brief "cheat sheet":

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HEATED WATER PHASE

• Allantoin
  
• Aloe Vera
  
• Beeswax (obviously!)
  
• Cocoa butter
  
• Emulsifier
  
• Glycerin
  
• Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI)
  

HEATED OIL PHASE

• Butters
  
• Oils
  
• Thickeners
  
• Waxes

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COOL DOWN / WATER PHASE

• Cyclomethicone (oil soluble but heat sensitive)
  
• Dimethicone (oil soluble but heat sensitive)
  
• Extracts
  
• Honeyquat
  
• Hydrosols / Infusions
  
• Panthenol
  
• Polyquat (less heat-sensitive than honeyquat)
  
• Preservatives
  
• Proteins
  
• Water
  

I will update the lists above as I introduce new ingredients.

If you add an ingredient to the heated phase that should be added in a cool down phase it may:

• Become inactive (most likely)
  
• Become smelly (apparently that happens with honeyquat)
  
• Spoil the emulsion so the formulation separates
  
• Feel different on the your hair (and skin)

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You might also like:

• Neno Natural's Free DIY Hair Recipes

Ref: The Naked Chemist, SwiftCraftMonkey

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